Never has an hour gone so quickly – or given me so many memories that I’m still talking about, several years later. This is of course my hour spent communing with Rwanda’s mountain gorillas.

An experience to last a lifetime

We set off from our lodge full of excitement – and more than a little trepidation. Would we find the gorillas? Would I be fit enough to do the walk? Would I find it too frightening to enjoy? I really didn’t know what to expect. What I got was an experience that will last me a lifetime.

Once introduced to our guide, we set off in search of our gorilla family (the Umubano group, head Silverback – Charles). The walk was manageable, not too long, a little steep and muddy in places – we walked for just over an hour before our guide made us stop, leave all non-essential belongings with the porters and told us the gorillas we’d been looking for were just around the corner. And they literally were, we were upon them before we knew it: huge, round, black furry ‘balls’ dotted among the forest vegetation, just sitting around, eating, preening, keeping a watchful eye on the young.

Gorillas at play

We were told not to get closer than 10 meters and our guide carefully placed us in safe positions – but gorillas don’t measure distance like we do, I sat for a long time just about 5 meters from a mother nursing her young baby, stroking its tiny head with her finger. What a treat, it was mesmerising. A slightly older toddler burst through the thicket, chewing on a stick. A couple of youngsters started to roll around and play with each other, to the irritation of a couple of the older ones.

It was fascinating, their behaviour so like our own. And all taking place under the watchful eye of Charles the Silverback, a huge beast. He was quick to bring the young ones in line when their play got a bit out of hand, but for the most part, he was happy just to observe. As were we. As the hour came to an end, Charles began to get a little more active and that’s when we knew it was time to leave. It was the most beautiful and moving encounter and I feel very privileged to have been this close to these incredible creatures.

FAQs

How far will I have to walk?

No two treks are the same – there are several different family groups, so the walking and the interactions will be different; they may be resting or they may be on the move so you may find yourself continually walking to keep them in sight. They could be in the thick of the forest – or in a clearing. Some groups are fairly easy to find, others could involve trekking for hours – either way, the experience is worth it.

Do I have to be very fit?

No. The park is at altitude so I felt a little breathless on arrival at the lodge, but acclimatised quickly. The porters are on hand to assist and there are ways and means of helping people with walking difficulties (a fellow guest with a broken ankle was carried up on what I can only describe as a kind of stretcher!).

Rwanda has just increased the permit prices – is it still worth it?

Absolutely. Yes, the permit is expensive, but having read the rationale behind the price hike, I can understand why. For one, the conservation work is working, the gorilla population is increasing (though still on the critically endangered species list) so the gorilla families themselves need more space to co-exist. To achieve this the government has to create more buffer zones around their protected areas, without penalising the local communities who also depend on the land. They could have increased the number of permits available and raised more money that way – but this would increase the human traffic in the park, and the gorillas are very sensitive to human diseases. I think the measure has been thought through – and you can receive a 30% reduction in the price of your permit if your stay includes other parks in Rwanda. One&Only Nyungwe House is one of our favourite lodges where you can combine a gorilla trek with seeing the chimps.

What should I wear/bring?

Gaiters (to stop things like ants getting up your trousers), gloves (to protect against prickly vegetation), light waterproof outer layers, decent walking boots, camera, waterproof cover for the camera and spare battery.

Where should I stay?

Sabyinyo and Virunga are our two favourite lodges currently and we’re eagerly awaiting the imminent opening of Wilderness Safaris’ Bisate Lodge.

How do I get there?

It’s easy to combine a gorilla trek with either a safari in the Serengeti or the Masai Mara, or hop on the  direct flight from Gatwick to Kigali.

Wow factor

We’re not saying it’s cheap, but a weekend break to trek gorillas is not out of the question...

• Friday – fly from Gatwick at 9.30pm
• Saturday – arrive in Kigali at 7.30am and head off to Volcanoes National Park
• Sunday – go on your gorilla trek
• Monday – enjoy the local area before heading back to Kigali for an overnight stay
• Tuesday – take the morning flight home, you’ll be back in Gatwick by 8pm

Now that should impress the neighbours!